Hasta la próxima!

It's been almost two weeks since I got back. I had meant to write before but have been quite busy. Like Pascal pointed out though, my blog does need a conclusion.

I spent the last two days of my trip in Lima. I had originally booked a hostel a couple of days prior to leaving Cuzco but Maruja, my dear housemate who's from Lima, graciously invited me to stay with her parents and enjoy her free room. What can I say...her parents, Tio (uncle) Pancho and Tia (aunt) Maruja (like mother, like daughter), are simply adorable. Tio Pancho had insisted on picking me up at the airport. They are happily retired and enjoy receiving guests in the house. Tia Maruja's cooking was lovely and if I had not been horribly sick on my last day, I would have enjoyed it better. They made me promise to come back and when I do, to bring my family and friends! Tia Maruja said that since her daughter now lives in Cuzco, I got to be her daughter for two days. We're even the same age. The love and affection I felt from this dear couple were so overwhelming at times that I had to hold back tears. I didn't do any sightseeing and was barely interested in doing any. I spent the whole time with them, with Tia Maruja mostly. We would walk on the streets, bras dessous bras dessus, to the markets to have a bite of causa rellena and a sip of chicha morada, to the church, with her introducing me to her friends. They too were really welcoming and Señora Anna Maria even wanted to set me up with her son...lack of time...next time she says! (why oh why, and what is it with mothers trying to get me settled with their sons, ayaye hehehe!)




On Monday, the day I left, they took me to a birthday lunch they were invited to. Their friend, Señora Chachi, was celebrating her 58th (if I remember correctly) and we had this delicious meal that I could barely finish because of ...a bad, bad, bad stomach.

Needless to say that the trip back home was anything but enjoyable. I have never had such an unpleasant flight before, being sick on the plane is one of my worst experiences ever - hmmm, I just realized that quite a few of my worst experiences actually involve a plane! It was good to come back home, albeit an empty one, what with Tof being away for a few months. I guess with going back to work the next day, a quite disturbing tummy ache that would nag me for a few days (thanks Dr. Jo for your prescription ahead of time by the way) and busy days in general, back-to-reality was instant and brutal almost. It was good seeing everyone again and hanging out before Nigel's departure was great. (We miss you already, Nige!)

Still, I miss Peru, Cuzco especially. I have been getting news of the kids and the centre on a regular basis, always good to know they're well and that dearest Walter still talks about marrying me someday!

It's been an incredible experience. I don't feel very different from the person I was before undertaking this trip. However, I'm now convinced that the sky really is the limit, that we can do anything we put our mind to. That dreaming is good and achieving even better, especially if it involves under-priviledged third parties. That it's o.k to steer away from the secure and stable path for it is only in the face of the unknown that we discover our strengths and weaknesses and eventually learn to overcome them.

I'm definitely left with fond memories that will last me till my next trip there, in this country that is probably the third I'll get to call home (someday who knows?).

To all of you who've been following my blog, thank you for having been such avid readers. I hope you liked this immersion into the Peruvian culture as much as I did and that you enjoyed my short tales of Peru.

Hasta la próxima!

Besos!
Do

...to Machu Picchu!

We were unpleasantly surprised to wake up to rain at 3:30 a.m. on Saturday. We had been told it wouldn't rain, it being the dry season and all. Yet again, the Gods had decided otherwise. We are to climb Machu Picchu, in the dark, drenched and cold. It is said that one is to suffer to see the magnificent Inca ruins... Climbing up the many stairs up the hill was a challenge, especially at 4 a.m.! We got there before the doors opened and yes, got our tickets to climb Wayna Picchu, the taller mountain on site (I think I left my fear of heights on these steep steps). The weather was again unpredictable, started out foggy and rainy, completely masking the mountains. Then the clouds started to make a move, allowing a glimpse of the hidden sun, but we never really knew what to expect. This had us snapping pictures every minute...! Or as Alessandro, the funny guy from Florence would say to me: "Doreen!!! It's picture time!!!" (anytime all the time). Machu Picchu is going in the books as a trek that was magical and inspiring. The fact that I met interesting people and made new friends made it all the more special.
The pictures should speak for themselves...it was simply fantastic, this feeling of being in a sacred place, almost on top of the world...

The Salcantay trek...

When I woke up at 3:45 to begin the trek to Machu Picchu last Tuesday (been a week already!), I had no expectations whatsoever about the next 5 days. Now, I can say, without doubt, that for my first hiking and camping experience, I did not pick the easy way. I am glad that I had physically prepared for the challenge ahead of time because apparently, the Salcantay trek is the hardest of all that lead to Machu Picchu. All the more reason to be proud, despite my bruised left foot at the end. Day 1 started beautifully. After our early bus ride 2.5 hrs higher up to Mollepata and taking a family picture, (Yes, we are to be a family for the 5 days, sharing our stories, emotions, snacks, sunscreen and insect repellent.) , we started off, Machu Picchu inspiring us. Once out of the village, the scenery quickly changed as images of gorgeous range of mountains, trees, dusty roads and a cloudless blue sky unfolded. It was bright and sunny and occasionally we would meet some peasants along the way. We would also cross paths with some cows, pigs, horses, donkeys and dead snakes over the course of the five days. After our first lunch stop, we headed for our first camp site, at the base of Mount Salcantay, the glacier mountain. In quechua, Salcantay means "invincible" and really is impossible to climb. That first night would be the coldest ever. Imagine camping in a desert base camp, with the winds of the glaciers blowing down on the tents. Even surrounded by two warm tent buddies, Harry and Fabian, I barely slept. What a delight it was though to be woken up at 5:30 with a hot cup of mate de coca (coca tea!)! :) Day 2 would be the hardest of all, as we climbed up to 4600 m, the highest that can be reached. I was agreeably surprised that I didn't feel the altitude. Sure, the lack of oxygen made us all pant like thirsty dogs, but other than that...we made it! And we made a wish to Pachamama (Mother Earth), using a stone we brought up the mountain. The weather changed abruptly after lunch and we hurried down the other side of the mountain, heading for camp 2. In one day, we would experience various temperatures and scenery types. As such, after the snow-tipped mountain, we would immediately enter the lush, tropical jungle. We got to meet some wild pigs and see a humming bird! Oh and what a difference the second campsite was! Harry, Tim, Nikki and I made it there first. Yay! We were almost too hot that night but as hot and dirty as we were, no one dared try the excuse for a shower. It only supplied cold water directly from the river...brrrr! Day 3 would bring us further downhill into the jungle, alongside the river that runs through the mountains. It was such a pleasure to look behind and see how far we came along. Day 4 would be flatter but also the day where mosquitoes and flies would feast on me. You do not want to see what they did to me. It would also be the day where we would finally see Machu Picchu in the distance and this would refuel our body. See how after 4 days we can still run (towards Machu Picchu). Just twist your neck a little and you can see it better. :) After a long walk on the railroad (literally!), we made it to Aguas Calientes where we finally got to sleep in a real bed, after 3 days.

La hora de las despedidas

Time to say goodbye.

Today was my last day volunteering at the Inti.
There's a law that says that on the volunteers' last day, they're supposed to cook something typical of their country. After a lot of thinking, I decided to make wantans and noodles, Mauritian-style. Harry and Maria helped me a lot with carrying groceries and preparing the food in the kitchen (and taking pics!), along with a couple of the girls. You now know how to make wantans. Thanks guys! The food was a success! :) But I have to take my hat off to Profe Nilda who cooks for so many children everyday!





I'm very sad to be leaving the Inti. The experience has been incredible and has helped me refocus on a personal level.
I will miss walking along the dusty road to the Inti everyday.
I will miss helping with Maths and science homework (surprisingly, my brain remembers aminoacids and exponentials).
I will miss peeling potatoes until my skin feels like potato skin.
I will miss running after Ronald, the brat who listens to no one.
But above all, I will miss the warmth and love of the children.

To all my new friends, teachers and volunteers: Maria, Mark, Harry, Henry, Edna, Nilda, Giannina, Freddy, Melinda and Luz Marina (the boss);
And to the all the children;
I will miss you all and keep you close to my heart. And thank you for everything you taught me. (I got a little emotional when Walter gave a speech on behalf of everyone and when it was time for goodbye hugs and kisses...Arggh how I hate goodbyes!)
But this is not goodbye, it's Hasta la proxima! I know, in my heart, that we are to meet again in the future.







On another note, I'm leaving for my 5-day Salcantay trek, ending in Machu Picchu early (TOO early) tomorrow morning. Harry will also be doing the trek. I'm sure we'll rock it, no worries. Come what may (rain, moquitoes, cold), we will be watching the sun rise on Machu Picchu early Saturday morning. Although I wish I had more days at the Inti, I think it is the perfect way to end this memorable trip. There will be no more updates this week. Bah, I'll probably update on Sunday, once in Lima. Back home soon. I may be sad that this trip is coming to an end but I can't wait to see you all! :)

Journey through the Sacred Valley of the Incas

Fresh from a conversation with Profe Melinda at the end of our afternoon session yesterday, I rushed to a travel agency and bought a ticket for a tour to the Sacred Valley for today. I had just realized that I could only see the Valle Sagrado de Los Incas today. Sunday, tomorrow, would have been a perfect day but the Santiago Municipality of Cusco is celebrating its anniversary and the Inti children, teachers and volunteers will have to participate in the parade that's scheduled for early tomorrow morning. The children have been practising their dancing this week and now they're pretty excited about the desfile.

Anyway, I just got off the bus and could not wait to share this day with you. As our guide Florian said, the Sacred Valley is a most cherished treasure of Cusco, and well-known around the world. I will not say much, other than it was almost religious going through the sacred valley, through the seemingly endless range of Andean mountains, breathing air that is so pure your lungs could sing hallelujah. It was a cultural day out, a very educational one. The architecture that dates back to the Inca and colonial times is just unbelievable. Even more amazing that everything was made by hand. In Pisaq, our first stop, we got to hike up the mountain to see the ruins and there was something mystical about standing so high, surrounded by mountains and calmness. You may find it hard to believe but I did feel the presence of the Gods of the Mountains (wink to Tina!). Surrounded by such natural beauty, you can only believe that something greater than mankind exists out there...

Checkpoint 1: Pisaq

I was glad for the hiking. More warm-up for Tuesday's 5-day hike that will end with Machu Picchu! See the Sacred Valley behind me...






Checkpoint 2: Ollantaytamba, the heart of the Sacred Valley

The ruins at Ollantaytamba, that lies at the core of the Sacred Valley, are impressive. Everything has a meaning and coincidentally, everything seems to have a shape. Believe it or not, the mountains at Ollantaytamba have the shape of a puma, an animal that was special and important during the Inca times. As well, the mountain across - the Sacred Mountain (where you can see remains of temples)- bears other ruins of temples that date back to pre-civilization times, as explained by the simpler structure of the remains. Don't know if you can see it, but apparently the West side of the Sacred Mountain takes the shape of a very important Inca leader, staring out left. Water flows down the mountain, through canals and foundations that were geniusly built. Similarly, there's this mountain that's shaped like a frog (see the eyes and legs) and incidentally, the frog was very important for agriculture back then.








Checkpoint 3: Chinchero

The sun has set and the scenery on the way to Chinchero, our final stop, was fabulous. Again, mountains that go on forever, lit by a full moon that seemed closer. At Chincheno, we were at an altitude of about 3,800 m. We got to stop at a textile workshop, where this smart and funny girl described the process of weaving, even explaining how various colours were obtained from the different plants...The whole process is natural and apparently, weaving a blanket - like the one she's wearing - could take up to 35 days! Last, we visited the church in Chinchero. You'll notice that the buildings and walls are two-toned. After the Spanish conquered and destroyed the temples and houses, the foundations were left intact and new houses were just built upon them.






I just knew I could not have gone back to Montreal without visiting the Sacred Valley. Even after a Friday night out "bar-hopping" à la cusqueña, having beer, pisco sour and mojitos (the best I've had so far!) at happy half-hours, it was worth waking up early for. Pictured are Maruja (left) and Maria (right), and Mark and Edgar(far left, a newcomer).



More fun is on the agenda tonight. More house-mates have arrived - a guy from Ecuador arrived two days ago and my own friend, Harry, from Montreal should have arrived this afternoon.

Before ending, Happy Birthday to my cousin, Nanu! Muah! Of course mo pane blier! :)